Not everyone has a garden, a balcony or a plot down the road. But almost everyone has a windowsill, and that is more than enough to keep you in fresh herbs through the year. A south-facing kitchen window is the closest thing most of us have to a Mediterranean hillside, and the herbs that grow best in pots — basil, parsley, chives — are exactly the ones that reward that bright, warm spot with months of cutting.
The secret is not expensive equipment. It is decent compost, a drainage layer of grit, a pot with a hole in the bottom, and the discipline to water properly rather than constantly. Get those four things right and you will be snipping leaves into sauces, salads and sandwiches while the rain batters the greenhouse outside.
Light is the limiting factor on any windowsill. Basil in particular sulks in shade, turning pale and leggy as it stretches towards the glass. Aim for at least six hours of direct sun, which in the UK usually means a south or south-west sill. A west-facing kitchen window will do for parsley and chives, which tolerate a little less. North-facing sills are best avoided unless you are prepared to use a small grow light.
Terracotta pots of around 15cm (6in) diameter suit individual herbs nicely, and their porous walls help compost dry out — useful, because overwatering is the single most common cause of windowsill failure. Plastic pots are lighter and cheaper but hold more moisture, so mix in extra grit. Whatever you choose, make sure there is a drainage hole and stand each pot on a saucer with a few pebbles so the roots never sit in a puddle.
Sill width matters more than you might think. Deep pots are more stable and hold moisture longer than shallow ones, and they give parsley's taproot room to stretch. If your sill is narrow, look at rectangular troughs designed for windowsills rather than forcing round pots to balance.
Herbs grown for leaves want a compost that drains freely but still holds enough moisture to keep roots happy. A good windowsill mix is roughly three parts peat-free multipurpose compost to one part horticultural grit, plus a handful of perlite if you have it. The grit is not decoration: it opens up the compost, lets air reach the roots and stops the sour, waterlogged conditions that kill basil and rosemary alike.
Because herbs in pots exhaust their nutrients quickly, mix in a slow-release fertiliser at planting time, or plan to feed fortnightly with a diluted liquid feed once the plants are established. If you are reusing old compost from last year's tomatoes, do not — it will be exhausted and may carry pests. Fresh compost is one of the few genuine bargains in gardening.
All three can be started from seed on the windowsill, and doing it yourself gives you varieties you will never find in a supermarket pot.
Thin seedlings so they stand a few centimetres apart. Crowded seedlings compete for light and water, and the whole lot will bolt or damp off. It feels wasteful to pull out healthy little plants, but it is the difference between a sparse crop and a generous one.
Check the compost daily with a finger pushed in to the first knuckle. Water when it feels dry at that depth, and water from the top until it runs out of the drainage hole, then empty the saucer. Little and often is the wrong approach on a windowsill — it leaves the surface damp and the lower roots dry.
Turn your pots a quarter-turn every few days so the plants grow evenly towards the light rather than leaning into the glass. Pinch out the growing tips of basil regularly to encourage branching; every pinch gives you leaves for the kitchen and a bushier plant. Remove flower buds from basil and chives as soon as you see them, because once a herb sets seed it stops producing leaves. Feed every two weeks in spring and summer, and ease off entirely from November to February, when light levels are low and growth slows.
Watch for greenfly, which love fresh basil indoors. A firm squirt of water from a spray bottle usually dislodges them. Grey mould on parsley stems means the air is too still and the compost too wet — improve ventilation and let the surface dry between waterings.
Never strip a plant bare. Take no more than a third of the leaves at any one time, and always cut from the top down, just above a pair of leaves, so the plant branches below the cut. Chives should be cut close to the base in tufts, leaving a couple of centimetres standing.
To keep the supply going, sow a second pot of basil every six weeks from spring to midsummer. Basil declines in winter light, so expect to treat it as an annual, while parsley and chives will carry on cropping year after year with a little attention. With three pots on rotation there is always something fresh within arm's reach of the kettle — which, on a wet Tuesday in February, is a quiet sort of triumph.
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